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  1. Islands, Castles, and Wine

    Tuesday, August 11, 2009

    Last month, after a year away from my heart's true home, I returned to the 1000 Islands in Northern NY. Yet again, it was a quick and dirty trip that should have been for more than just an extended weekend. Unfortunately, I haven't earned enough vacation time from work to give the St. Lawrence River a suitable chunk of my time. Regardless, US Airways got me to Syracuse in record time; a remarkable feat, considering I connected via Philadelphia, which is rated one of 2009's Top 5 Worst Airports in America. Ange was there to pick me up, and we stayed overnight in Syracuse before heading north up 81 in the morning.

    Day 1
    As per tradition, Ange and I motored up the great 81 North to Alexandria Bay, where we met up with Aunt Charlotte. As I waited for her to out of the resort office to the front desk, I overheard her co-worker say, "You're right. She does look just like Kyra." Kyra is the 6-foot-tall, red-headed daughter of my Aunt, and she's about 6 years younger than me. Perhaps the Fountain of Youth water IS working...I'll take that statement as a sign that Kyra looks older than me, which is why I look like her! Aunt Charlotte treated us ladies to a lovely lunch overlooking the main channel and Boldt Castle at the Captain's Landing. My taco salad was bigger than my head, and barely looked as if I put a dent in it by the end of the meal. My tummy just ain't got room for a half of head of lettuce, regardless of how good it all tasted!

    After lunch, Ange and I poked around downtown while we waited for our friend Cheryl to meet us, along with her two boys. Once they arrived, we tried to catch up while leading the boys on an exploration of downtown. We checked out the boats, the fish, the docks, the puddles (oh yes, the oh-so-splashable puddles), the oversized chess board, and the shops. All of this was fueled by a generous dose of ice cream (mmmmmm! ice cream!!) from the Lil' River Fudge Co. I had the vanilla oatmeal cookie ice cream, and damn, was it delicious. The fudge from there is fantastic, as well, especially the Butterfinger chocolate fudge. So. Good.

    Late in the afternoon, Ange and I finally headed over to base camp -- Auntie C's homestead in Fishers Landing. We stopped into Uncle Ron's wood boat restoration shop to let him know the estrogen had arrived for the weekend, then we headed inside to settle in for the weekend. Aunt Charlotte followed shortly behind with a feast for dinner. Wine, of course, for happy hour. Then, for dinner: fettuchine alfredo and baked zucchini, cut length-wise and topped with herbs, shrimp, and feta cheese. Phenomenal. Seriously tasty stuff, and more of it than we could eat in one sitting. The four of us chatted until exhaustion, then headed to bed sated and happy.

    Day 2
    As much as I want to sleep in on vacation, it never seems to happen. I should be used to it by now, as I have always been the first to rise, even after a late night out on the town. 8:30 is my natural wake-up setting, unless perhaps the room is blacked out. At least on vacation, my mornings can be leisurely and as pokey as I want. Around 10, Ange and I headed over to Clear Lake where Cheryl and her family rented a camp. When we arrived, her two boys were in fishing mode, and the rest of us were waiting to see if rain would appear. It seemed safe to head out on the boat to tour around the lake. Cheryl's parents, Cheryl, her two boys (Chase and Cy), Ange, and I piled into the powerboat and took off for the other side. We saw a HUGE turtle, and it nearly hit the boat. Then, it started to rain. We blasted back to the dock, and I felt every pin drop of rain as it zinged into my face on the way back. At least it was warm out.

    We had lunch at camp with Cheryl's family, and I rough and tumbled with Chase for a bit. Those boys are ALL energy, all the time. Shocking, I know. After lunch, Ange and I headed back to Alex Bay to catch our 2:00 Uncle Sam Boat Tour to Singer Castle on Dark Island. I've done the Boldt Castle tour several times over recent years, and this was one tour I had yet to do. The castle just opened to tours in the last 5 or 6 years. Plus, it required a 2 hour boat ride out there, which I love. I just crave time out on the actual River when I am up there, and this was a great, relaxing way to do that. The weather cleared, too, in just enough time for the tour. It was gorgeous the whole rest of the afternoon.

    On our way downriver to the castle, we saw a saltie (a container ship that plies both the freshwater of the Great Lakes Waterway and the open ocean):



    And on our way upriver, after touring the castle, we saw a laker (a container ship that only transits the freshwater of the Great Lakes Waterway):



    Singer Castle gives off quite the grand impression as you approach it:


    Five floors. 30 rooms. A grass tennis court. And enclosed squash court. A mega boathouse. And Singer called it a hunting shack. Right. What the hell is my 500 square foot apartment, then? A freaking hovel, is what! While the interior was impressive -- rooms with beautiful views and cross-breezes -- I was more enamored with the garden.

    REAL GRASS!
    I salivate over REAL GRASS. Here in Florida, the grass is crap -- it looks like crab grass. It is course and itchy; and it's a veritable minefield filled with fire ants. I am either loved or hated by fire ants. When they attack me, I swell to amazing proportions. And it hurts! And I become whiny (just like I am now). And then the bites start to weep and ooze. It's not pretty. And now, I am afraid of grass. I had to mentally check myself while at the River to myself that the grass was lovely, soft, and safe. Oh, my tootsies LOVED to cool, soft grass. You really DON'T know what you have until it is gone. For serious. Mmmm, real grass. I'm having a moment here...

    Moment over...and back to the show. Singer Castle. Yes, it was a lovely display of wealth. You can stay overnight in the Royal Suite, which sleeps 6, not including the "friendly" ghosts that haunt the place. Oh, there are stories, and I would rather not hear them. Ghost stories FREAK. ME. OUT. Don't know why, but they just make me feel icky. Let's focus on the pretty, instead:






    Refreshing views from a hunting shack, right? Well, the tour hustles you through the house and grounds in about 45 minutes before shuttling you back onto the boat, so catch it while you can! We reached Alex Bay around 5:30 or so, stopped into say Hey to our hostess, Auntie C., then motored back to Fishers Landing for happy hour on the porch.

    For the second year in a row, Ange brought the game meat for our dinnertime enjoyment. This night: baked trout with lemon garlic marinade and fresh rosemary and thyme. On the side, leftovers from the night before, and my God, it was delicious. Dessert was some cookies bought from Gals on Route 12. Again, we went to bed fat and happy, ready for another day of vacation.

    Day 3
    This is about when full vacation mode kicks in -- you're feeling relaxed, happy, and on the way to recharged. Again, I was up around 8:30 because I don't know any other way. After a lazy start, Ange and I decided to meet up with Cheryl (sans sons) for breakfast in Alex Bay at The Dancing Dog. Who knew a bar could do double duty as a breakfast joint. The grilled cinnamon roll was all the convincing I needed!! Over a huge breakfast, we caught up on girl talk and lamented our lack of more opportunities to get together. I'm still working on teleportation...

    After breakfast, Ange and I made our way towards Clayton for some shopping and touring about town. We stopped at all the usual shops, and picked up some kick ass cheese from River Rat Cheese. Bacon Horseradish Cheddar Cheese, anyone?!? Oh, HELLOOO!! Needless to say, that was gone in a blink of an eye when we busted it out with the crackers before dinner.

    Before checking out of Clayton, Ange and I hit up the brand spanking new winery -- Coyote Moon. New fact: Ange likes the fruitiest freakin' wine out there. I mean FRUITY. I learned that I like it dry, dry, dry and out of the oakey barrel. I bought two bottles of the Chardonnay, thinking I would take one home (in my temporary amnesia about the TSA regulations for liquids on board airplanes). The extra bottle stayed behind, but I know it was well loved by Auntie C.

    As with any great vacation, Ange and I got tired from our midday excursion, and we came back to read, relax, and nap. This evening's dinner would be spent over on the island where Uncle Ron's parents have a cottage. We grilled up Ange's venison kielbasa and ate the living daylights out of the bacon horseradish cheese. We also drained the Coyote Moon chardonnay. I call that responsible drinking. It is our responsibility to leave no drop behind in the bottle or at the bottom of the glass!! Dessert was the lovely view:



    A little gray, but lovely nonetheless. The top photo is the view of Fineview over on Wellesley Island, and the pale green boathouse in the center is the house my family and I stayed at last year. The bottom photo is of the main channel, and the channel marker has a small shrub growing on it. All it needs is a rock and another piece of vegetation and it technically could qualify as an island. Island number 1,801 coming right up!!

    Day 4
    Poop. I must head home. The start south down 81 is always a freaking bummer. I get so sad!! At least this year, I did have lunch with a very dear old friend of mine to look forward to!! I haven't seen Steph in 3 or 4 years (I lost count), and I swear it didn't seem like that was the case either before or after my visit with her. I have known her since I was 3, and we always manage to pick right up where we left off the last time we spoke. It is amazing to have such friends in this world. Ridiculously, I neglected to a photo of the two of us together. Who knows when we might see each other again!! Hopefully, next summer, although, Europe is on the docket for 2010.
    --------------------------
    Trip Tally:
    Number of Singer sewing machines in the castle: at least 6
    Number of cliffs jumped: 0 (Goal is to jump 1 next time)
    Number of bottles of wine kicked: um...3, 4...5?
    Number of times it rained: at least once a day

  2. I meant to make this post back in June. Clearly, it just didn't happen. Now, I've got some time, and I'm making up for it! Enjoy this post, as well as the next couple of ones to come...


    Another friend turns 30. Thank God they are all doing it before me!! It softens the blow, and kind of lulls me into thinking I am already 30. I've got a couple months more to go before I hit that milestone (landmine?). Anyway, 30 is a pretty big deal to us humans -- it feels like an appropriate moment to look back and forward, and to share with your favorite people -- so at the close of May, Karin and I converged upon Katie in Gainesville, the sleepy town that is home to the Florida Gators. If you weren't a fan of the Gators before going to Gainesville (like me), you're less of a fan once you see the Gator mailboxes and orange and blue gas stations. It's not like there is much going on in G'ville, other than the most AWESOME pizza parlor and junk emporium I have EVER been to in my life. Satchel's is not only awesome atmosphere, but an awesome blend of kitschy eclectica. I seriously wish St. Pete had the same kind of place because then, my town might be close to being a 10. Clearly, there was no other choice than to hit Satchel's for dinner before going out on the town (for the first time that weekend). Satchel's did not disappoint.

    After dropping off the Satchel's leftovers at Casa de Katie, we headed out to downtown G'ville where we met up with more kindred folk to continue the celebration. At the first bar, there was a band that was completely, and surprisingly, amazing (think NPR All-Songs-Considered fare, and then smile because it is good fare). I was impressed, and energized. As the set ended, Katie downed her midnight birthday shot, then our merry group ambled onto to The Top. On our way, we negotiated a free birthday weiner for Katie from a sidewalk vendor of processed meats. Apparently, processed meats do not rise to the top of Katie's favorites list, and the bite we egged her to take, was not a delicious bite. [And here is where Katie and I differ. I love me some street vendor hot dogs, sausages, kielbasa, what have you, especially late at night after a few cheaply priced beers. What doesn't taste better? Well, OTHER than a hot dog at the ball park?!?]

    I hit my wall at The Top. I had driven up from St. Pete straight after working a full day, and I was wiped. I was falling asleep on my bar stool, and I couldn't concentrate enough to hear the conversation over the background din. Yet, somehow, we made it to last call before calling it a night.


    Hey, good thing the neighbor in the apartment downstairs knew that we had gone out for a late night!! Because what says "Good Morning" like blasting the effing Bee Gees' "Night Fever" at 7:51 AM?!!?? And better yet, let's repeat the song, then follow it up with John Travolta's theme song from "Saturday Night Fever"?!? Disco usually doesn't make me so cranky, but at 8 AM, it's a different story. I ended up falling back asleep, only to awake distraught from the throes of a thoroughly upsetting dream. Good thing I had my best girls and a day at the beach to brighten my mood.

    After a quick breakfast, and packing up supplies, Katie, Karin, and I hit the back roads of northern Florida, headed for the beaches of St. Augustine, FL, the oldest city in the U.S. Juan Ponce de Leon set foot there in 1518 (I'm pretty sure), where he discovered The Fountain of Youth (and we'll get to that later). In about 2 hours, the three of us were bathing beauties on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. The water temperature is perfect this time of year. Cold enough to be a bit a of a struggle, if you just wade in, but wonderfully refreshing once you're in it, basking in the sun and hot air. St. Augustine is a beautiful beach. It's pretty flat and firm, so you can ride bikes along it, and in places, even drive your car right up on the beach and park for the day. We kept it simple with beach towels, sarongs, and a cooler.


    We got our fill of the beach, then headed over to our hotel to check in. We scored a pretty great deal at the Quality Inn, where we got ready for dinner, drinks, and dessert. We ate a New Orleans flavored meal at Harry's, then headed over to The Tini Martini for some potent drinks and gifts.

    After gifts, giggling, and gabbing, we felt it was time for some ice cream. We grabbed the last few scoops from Whetstone Ice Cream. Ice cream in a waffle cone is better than birthday cake, if you ask me. I'm not the birthday girl (yet), but I think Katie felt the same. We drifted off to bed knowing it was our last night in St. Augustine, and the next day would be filled with travel home; however, the long goodbye would not begin before we tasted the water from the Fountain of Youth.

    My God. Where do I begin? We are all tourists at some point or another, and we all love a good attraction. The Fountain of Youth has to be the most GLORIOUSLY tacky spectacle I have ever seen; this INCLUDES South Carolina's way over-hyped South of the Border. [The only other destination I have been to that might rival it -- Spongeorama in Tarpon Springs. Oh yeah, you read right.] We arrived at the Fountain of Youth via streets lined with Spanish moss-encrusted trees and a lovely arched sign.


    With an entrance like that, the Fountain of Youth has GOT to be something great, right? You have NO idea...Armed with our coupons for $1 off the admission price, we paid the fee, and entered the site of Ponce de Leon's miraculous discovery. Peacocks abound on the property, which rolls right up to the Intracoastal Waterway.


    I hadn't seen this many peacocks since my days living in Miami, when I would see them toodling around Coconut Grove in the mornings during my runs. They are beautiful...and loud, sqawking little birds. I kept a safe distance in case one should decide to start pecking at me. Thank you Mom for having me watch Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds at such a young age. I forever fear the pecking of birds.

    I know, you're all just WAITING for the big reveal -- the great, and mighty Fountain of Youth. Let me tell you, it's beyond any sort of tacky you can imagine. You enter, and this is what you see:

    Oh yeah. Plastic manikins, plastic flowers, painted murals, Christmas lights, and the lovely fountain itself is about 2 feet wide with some nasty tasting, very minerally water. I got asked if I was 23 at a bar the other night, and I still get carded for alcohol, so maybe the water really does have restorative powers. Maybe.

    After tasting the water of youth, us gals tooled around the rest of the property until it got a little too hot (and a little buggy). We checked out the uber-tacky gift shop, and debated over magnets, shot glasses, and perhaps purchasing some bottle youth water.

    As always, I'll end my post about a (not-so-) far-off place by saying that I wish I had more time there. It never seems that a city opens itself up to you until you spend at least a week there; and it that time it either lulls you into thinking you've only scratched the surface (and you need to stay longer to discover all its secrets), or you've had enough and it's time to discover new place to explore. St. Augustine made me feel the former, and I hope I'll take another road trip - this time to become more than just an acquaintance with this old city.